Setting the teeth on a dovetail saw

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H

HSteier

Well-known member
I have a dovetail saw with 22 tpi that I have sharpened many times. It no longer has any set to the teeth and it binds almost immediately. If I wax it, it works a little better but not much. It also drifts off in one direction.
I can barely see the teeth to sharpen them, even with magnification. How does one set such tiny teeth?

Howard Steier
 
Those are some really little teeth, Howard.  But any small set should do it. I recently used a new set from Toolsforworkingwood.com and liked it.  A Stanley 42X is a nice set, but it's too big for this job.  You can also keep your eyes peeled for a Morrill type set.  Though I think I liked the set from Joel mo' better.

Word up

Adam
 
I can't really help with the set but I need to sharpen my dovetail saw as well. What file do you use for this? Size, angles etc. And where do I go about getting one?
 
The thread just before this one is about sharpening dovetail saws. I have been using a double extra slim file with acceptable results. Another member suggested needle files. The website www.toolsforworkingwood.com has a variety of files for saw sharpening.
The saw teeth are tiny and my biggest problem, besides loosing the set, is seeing the teeth well enough to sharpen every other tooth in the opposite direction. This may also be contributing to blade drift.

Howard Steier
 
Howard,

Personally, a small nail and a good closed grain hardwood like Maple works for me. Lay the saw so the plate is flat onto the face of the board. Figure out how to support the saw that is off the board.

Use the tip of a 16 d nail, a light hammer and gently tap every other tooth, flip the saw and gently tap the other teeth. The tip of the nail should be positioned right on the tip of the tooth.

By gently, I mean really gentle. The thinner the plate, the smaller the teeth, the easier they bend. Start at the heel to get a good feel for this. Under the handle area if you overset it isn't as critical and can be dealt with easier than down at the toe.

Take care, Mike
 
Is the maple just a flat board?  Are you just driving the tooth into the wood?  I gotta try this.  I have saws with teeth I can't set (under the handle).

Did you get to stitch a rasp with Michel Auriou?  That was pretty fun.  I could see trying to make my own rasp.  I won't, but I could see how it might be fun.  Pretty sure life it too short to stitch your own rasps, do your own taxes, roofing, or mufflers.  Everything else is fair game!

Adam
 
Hi Adam,

Yep, just a dressed (not rough surfaced) board. I use to use Maple and it is the wood easily obtainable and a lot of woodworkers already have. These days my wood anvils and straightening boards (the face grain board) are Jatoba. I use touse a lot of the wood when I actually made stuff and so have a bunch of shorts and some whole boards left over.

The nail, a common framing nail (not a hardened concrete nail) is pretty soft. But yes, the tips of the saw's teeth do lightly impress into the board's surface. This method of setting a saw is as old as the hills. I didn't come up with it. But it has been used for on-site work by carpenters, larger woodsman saws in the field, and by cabinet maker's setting their own saws for eons.

I did the stiching thing a couple years ago with Michel. It is a great process. Dina shot a couple really good pictures at this event and the last one. Haven't processed the new ones, but here are a couple pictures from 2006.

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/m_auriou_0001.jpg

And the wonderful hammer...

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/m_auriou_0002.jpg

The ones Dina shot at WIA are much more detailed. I'll process them tonight if you are interested.

Take care, Mike
 
Howard,
         I set my gents saw, and all other very small saw teeth on a piece of hardwood (Beach). Down one edge I put a very slight rebate ½” wide,(half of the set, deep). I then lay the saw so the teeth just over hang the rebate edge, I clamp another straight piece of beach over the top to hold in place, (only on the saw blade though, not the teeth),I then cramp to the bench. I use a 2” hilti (Hardened nail) to slightly bend the teeth down to the bottom of the rebate, only light taps with a pin hammer are required, I  start from the handle end, and move steadily to the front of the blade, slightly bending every other tooth, I would use a movable lighted magnifier if I needed, I must emphasise though, only light taps are needed on the very end of each tooth.

                                                   Joseph Hemingway
                                                     Sharing the tricks of the trade.
                                                         1968-2008
     
       
 
Howard - One trick I've used as an aid to filing really tiny teeth are to use a sharpie felt-tip marker to blacken every other tooth.  It makes seeing that you're sharpening every other one a whole lot easier.  When you're done, a quick wipe with alcohol or laquer thinner removes the ink.
 
Hi Howard, I was addressing your setting (problem), it never entered my head
By asking a “Setting” question?
You were really meaning: “Sharpening”
So I must now advise you on “Sharpening.
But first explain this.
Personally, I’ve always found it difficult to file with a sawset? Always found a saw file works better every time. Sorry All. (We cannot Joke? We are in a slowdown)
Politicle Bunkum.
This reply comes about by my watching? ("The Morecambe and Wise" Christmas Show, 1964 classic) with André Previn: Eric renamed: André, as: Audry Preview?  Gut busting stuff.

                                                                    Joseph Hemingway
 
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