18th century "super bowl"

You are reading the forum of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers — people who build and study American period furniture.

Membership brings the whole forum, the annual journal and quarterly magazine, the members’ gallery and workbench, and chapters across the country. About membership

macchips4

Well-known member
I'm contemplating making a bombe chest of drawers in the future.
      I have the plans from the website by Ed Stuckey for a Bombe chest with a flat front or I was also thinking about one with a serpentine or bowl front. Question is: would it be "correct"/OK/permissible to have two piece sides, and /or a two piece top? Obtaining 20"+ very wide 3" mahogany is a quite pricy and no local dealers presently have any. The same for wide 20"+ 4/4 for the top. But glued up (2pc) narrower 3" stock for the sides and 12" 8/4 to be re-sawn for a book-matched top is an option that's locally availible.
Any opinions or thoughts?  Thanks
 
You can use two piece top and sides, but being the purist that I am, I would go with one piece.  Yes, mahogany is expensive, but with all the work involved, why try to save a few bucks on materials on such a fine piece.  Remember,  whatever you use will be there to look at from now on.  I don't think you will regret it.

Kirk
 
Does anyone know of examples of period bombes with two-piece sides?  If so, then it's a little easier to make that decision.

That said, I don't know why bombe should be any different than other case pieces in this regard.  Though it may not be "correct," it's widely accepted to use a glue-ed up side/top on case piece reproductions...they key is to do it well (good color match/grain match, with a single glue joint roughly down the middle).  We almost always have to make some concessions to modern timber, after all.
 
One of the things that makes a Bombe is the way the growth rings forma sort of a bulbous shape on the sides.

But if gluing up I would opt for 1/4 sawn to hide the fact that it was a glue up.

The only bombe I'm aware of with glued up sides is the Derby-Rand desk. A bad picture Here:http://www.clprickett.com/CLP4941pg23.htm, but you can make out the glue line.

In wood working, especially 18th century, For every absolute hard fast rule there always seems to be exceptions.
 
I spent some time at the hardwood dealer and found two 12/4 "boards" of genuine mahogany. One 16" and another 23" wide, both 8 foot long.
That gives plenty of material for the sides, feet , drawers etc.
But the top... using these , it would be 2 pieces book-matched after re-sawing a plank.
Maybe I'll keep looking for a 4/4 or 5/4 23" wide piece for a one piece top.
 

If this discussion was useful, there are twenty years of them here. Join SAPFM to take part — the forum, the journal, the magazine and the members’ gallery come with membership.

Back
Top